The Renaissance Vineyard and Clos Saron: arguably California's original natural wine and a story that could only have happened here.
A failed cult; the eerie mythos of rural Northern California; a herd of camels corralled by the watchful eyes of replicas of Michelangelo's “David"; a Paris-based painter looking for a new purpose; and a unicorn vineyard in the Sierra Foothills that provided exactly the purpose he was seeking: this is the story of Gideon Bienstock.
When Gideon Bienstock stumbled on a pamphlet for Berkeley, CA based Fellowship of Friends, he was ready to make a change in his life. Soon after attending a group meeting in Paris in 1987, he uprooted his life in France (where he was working as an artist), and moved to Oregon House -- a small town in the Sierra Foothills with fewer than 1500 people and the spiritual home of the Fellowship. For over a decade, Gideon was immersed in the search for enlightenment that the Fellowship promised, surrounded by artists and others with an appetite for "exploration." He has also worked tirelessly in the Renaissance vineyard.
At first, the Renaissance vineyard was mostly an afterthought for the Fellowship, but after a UC Davis student and Fellowship member consulted with a prominent German winegrower, the group threw themselves into planting new vines throughout the amphitheater vineyard, starting with 10-15 acres, then ramping up to almost 100. By the time Gideon arrived, the Fellowship was madly committed to winemaking. It was a contagious enthusiasm, and when the time came to designate a new head winemaker, Gideon emerged as the obvious successor.
Years later in 1999, when Gideon ultimately decided to leave the Fellowship, he didn't go far: he and his wife, Saron Rice, traveled further down the slope of the mountain and established Clos Saron, where they found soils and climate more suited to Pinot Noir and Rhone varieties than the Bordeaux varieties he worked with at Renaissance. Gideon took with him his patient approach to winemaking, allowing his wines to ferment slowly and happily without inoculation or temperature control, holding releases until they're ready to drink, not when the market demands it. Above all, he's remained a farmer, tending organically and entirely by hand to his Home Vineyard and small plots that he works with along the hillside.
Gideon's early Clos Saron releases quickly established him as a new icon in California wine. In an era that was still dominated by the overly ripened, burley wines that garnered high scores at the expense of nuance and terroir expression, Gideon produced unapologetically singular wine that eschewed those trends.
Today, his wines remain a striking example of fiercely independent winemaking and commitment to terroir expressiveness not often found in domestic wines. His reds are marked by an almost feral elegance, with charred earth and savory undertones providing a foil for the lush fruit that the Sierra Foothills provides; his whites are structured and serious, with striking, savory umami throughout.
Gideon's “Home Vineyard” Pinot Noir has become a benchmark example of the lithe, lifted elegance that can be coaxed from the steep, rocky soils of this surprisingly cool slice of the Sierra Foothills; the balance of the excellent 2019 vintage yielded perhaps the most realized expression yet. His “Carte Blanche,” a textural blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon marked by brisk acidity and a concentrated palate of citrus oil, stone fruit, and dried herb, is among the most age-worthy white wines produced anywhere in the United States.
Two new Clos Saron releases highlight Gideon's unique position in California wine, with one foot fixed firmly in the heritage and tradition of the Sierra Foothills, and another pointed towards new growth and experimentation.
The 2016 “Old Block” Pinot Noir comes from Clos Saron's oldest vineyard, one which Gideon grafted from Cabernet Sauvignon to Pinot in the mid-90s. It's silky, herb-laced, and lifted by perfectly balanced acidity and remarkable freshness, just now entering its prime drinking window. And after nearly a decade of slow, measured growth, Gideon has finally released his inaugural “White Field” Red, blending his Syrah and Pinot Noir from his home vineyard with new plantings of Counoise and Trousseau. Red fruited with savory accents and a lively palate, it's a welcome addition to the Clos Saron portfolio.
Clos Saron wines continue to be among the most impressive, singular expressions of California winemaking. All wines are in limited supply and come directly from Gideon's cellar.
