“Corsica smells like the maquis (wild, aromatic scrubland)…and so do its wines.” - Kermit Lynch
In Serra Di Ferro, a village curving up the southern Corsican coast between Propriano and Ajaccio, the golden hour is blue. The mountains in the distance cast a long, purplish grey shadow across the chestnuts, pine, and tangled underbrush of rosemary, shrubs and succulents, just as the Mediterranean comes into view. It's in this setting that Sebastien Poly took over his grandfather's 60+ year old vines at Domaine U Stiliccionu.
This stretch of Corsica offers one of the world's most strikingly rugged terroirs. It exists at the tail of the Alpine chain and is made up almost entirely of soaring peaks that reach up to 9,000 feet in elevation. The soils here are rocky, with varying mineral composition: largely granite, with pockets of schist and limestone (and bolstered by the omnipresent basalt base). Corsica's feral beauty, the brambly, aromatic myrtle and juniper bushes that dot the island, are reflected in the expression of Sebastien's vines: savory-scented Vermentinu, Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu that scream of charred earth and wild game.
He converted the estate to organic and biodynamic farming nearly 20 years ago; otherwise, it remains largely unchanged from his grandfather's time at the helm. Much of the property is dedicated to a poly-culture farm complete with chickens, donkeys and cows grazing through the vineyards, in between olives and citrus trees on ancient terraces, and large untouched tracts of scubby forest. The dense, untamed mix of Mediterranean shrubs, herbs, and small trees that grows naturally in this hot, dry, coastal climate plays a crucial role in defining the unique character of Corsican wine. The island's best producers, like Sebastien, allow that character to shine through.
Sebastien prioritizes purity in his wine above all else, in both the clarity with which he communicates the terroir of the island and the preservation of traditional varietals. Careful work both in the vineyard and in his cellar has allowed him to turn experiments with using no SO2 into a consistent part of his winemaking. And while his wines have earned him a cult following among sommeliers across Europe, they are at their core authentic, dynamic, energetic expressions of Corsica's rich vinous culture.
Few varieties capture the island's rugged beauty quite like Sciaccarellu. Arguably Corsica's most important red variety, it has the bright, snappy red fruit of Gamay or Pinot Noir, but with a densely packed aromatic core of wild mountain herbs and savory spice. Its distinct character is a direct reflection of Corsica's maquis landscape: sun-warmed herbs, wild red berries, and salt-kissed sea breeze coming together in perfect harmony. And Sebastien's “Sottu Scala” Sciaccarello is as pure and direct an expression you'll find.
"Sottu Scala" translates to "under the stairs" in the local Corsican dialect, a nod to Sebastien's preference for letting this wine develop in the cellar before release. Made from the last pick of Sciaccarello each vintage to capture full phenolic maturity, fermented and aged exclusively in demi-muids, this is a gamey, savory, red-fruited beauty, distinctly expressive of its island roots but with a uniquely inviting freshness.
Lithe, lifted, and wonderfully perfumed, this is an ethereal expression of one of the world's greatest (and often overlooked) terroirs.
Regularly $50 per bottle now $46 on 1 bottle, $42 on 3 bottles, and $38 on 6+ bottles!